Nothing says I love you like a diner dinner: Valentine’s recipes from Anna Jones | Food (2024)

The modern cook

A tofu melt sandwich inspired by When Harry Met Sally, and a blockbuster cherry-chocolate ice-cream sundae to finish

Anna Jones

Fri 8 Feb 2019 13.00 CET

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Valentines Day splits opinion. Some go all out – a table for two and all the red roses – others look down their noses at its cheesiness. I have for many years been firmly in the latter camp. As time goes by, maybe I am softening to the kitsch of it all, but I’m still not one for a restaurant on Valentine’s Day, so we stay at home. And this year, after re-watching When Harry Met Sally, I know exactly what to make ...

Katz’s deli-inspired tofu melt (pictured above)

I use an American-style sourdough or rye here, but any bread will do; I like quite a soft crust. The Russian dressing is not mandatory – just a slick of mustard will still make a delicious sandwich. You can just buy jarred sauerkraut if you’d rather. To make a proper fermented sauerkraut, see my recipe here.

Prep 10 min
Pickle 1 hr
Cook 5 min
Makes 2

For the sandwiches
Oil, for frying
200g extra-firm smoked tofu, patted dry with kitchen towel
1 generous squeeze American mustard, for each slice bread
3 dill pickles, sliced
4 thick slices emmental (roughly 125g)
4 slices white sourdough or rye bread

For the quick sauerkraut
1 bulb fennel (200g)
200g white cabbage
1 good pinch flaky salt
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 tsp juniper berries

For the Russian dressing
2 tbsp mayonnaise
2 tbsp ketchup
½ tbsp vinegar, from the pickle jar
1 tbsp horseradish sauce
1 pinch salt

For the quick sauerkraut, slice the fennel and cabbage very finely, ideally on a mandoline, and sprinkle over the salt. Scrunch it up with your hands, massaging the salt into the cabbage. Toast the fennel and caraway seeds in a dry pan and, when fragrant, crush in a mortar with the juniper. Massage the mixture through the cabbage and fennel, cover and leave for at least one hour, so that the cabbage wilts and its juices are released.

Mixing all the dressing ingredients together, and taste for seasoning, adding a little black pepper if needed (you shouldn’t need any more salt).

When you are nearly ready to eat, start on the sandwich. Put a pan on a high heat with a little oil, and slice the tofu into four 15mm pieces. Season, and fry until crisp – about two minutes on both sides. When one side has crisped up, flip and top it with the emmental. Leave the cheese to melt slightly, then flip it over on to the cheese side for 15 seconds.

Meanwhile, spread the mustard on half the bread slices, and lay the pickles and sauerkraut on top. When the cheese has melted, and while it’s still piping hot, add the tofu, then take the other slices of bread, spread with Russian dressing, flip and press down on the filling. Cut in half and serve with a napkin.

Cherry and chocolate ice-cream sundaes

Serve these in tall frosted glasses with long sundae spoons (for digging right to the bottom of the glass), if you have them. Vegans can use a vegan ice-cream and swap the honey and butter in the sauce for golden syrup and vegan butter. Any unused chocolate sauce keeps well in the fridge and can be reheated at a moment’s notice (or eaten cold by the spoonful).

Prep 5 min
Cook 10 min
Makes 2 sundaes

4 scoops vanilla or chocolate ice-cream (or a mixture)
50g nuts (I like pecans, almonds and hazelnuts)

For the cherry sauce
150g frozen cherries
1 tbsp maple syrup

For the chocolate sauce
8 tbsp honey
6 tbsp unsalted butter
8 tbsp cocoa powder
2 tsp amaretto or kirsch (optional)

Put two pans on the hob. To one, add the frozen cherries and maple syrup; to the other, the honey and butter for the chocolate sauce. Cook both, stirring, over a medium heat.

Reduce the cherries until the juice becomes thick, but not too sticky (it will thicken more as it cools).

Once the honey and butter have melted, stir in the cocoa to make a thick, glossy sauce, add the booze, if you are using it, then take off the heat.

Toast the nuts in a dry pan, then chop them finely.

Scoop the ice-cream into glasses or bowls, alternating with a little of the chocolate sauce, then the cherry sauce, followed by more chocolate, and finish with a sprinkling of nuts.

Topics

  • Food
  • The modern cook
  • Vegetables
  • Valentine's Day
  • Dessert
  • Sandwiches
  • When Harry Met Sally
  • Main course
  • features
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Nothing says I love you like a diner dinner: Valentine’s recipes from Anna Jones | Food (2024)

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